Hearing clunks, wheel slop, or no-drive on your EZ-GO TXT? This rear-axle guide maps fast, safe checks—from U-bolts to splines and diff wear—to get you rolling again.
If your golf cart feels misaligned, makes a “thunk” over bumps, or the motor spins while the wheels don’t, start with simple mechanical checks before chasing harder faults. A TXT’s rear axle assembly depends on tight U-bolts, intact spring centering bolts, healthy hub/brake-drum splines, and a sound differential. On electric models, controller or solenoid issues can also mimic rear-end problems when the motor never energizes.
What typically fails on a TXT rear axle—and why
- Loose U-bolts or broken centering bolt: The axle can shift on the leaf springs, causing clunks, rear-steer, and uneven tire wear.
- Stripped hub/drum or axle splines: The motor turns the axle, but the wheel hub slips on worn splines—engine/motor revs, cart doesn’t move.
- Worn differential gears: Whine, growl in turns, metal in oil, or delayed engagement indicate internal wear.
- Electric models—control side issues: A silent motor may be a controller/solenoid fault; a spinning motor with no movement points back to mechanical slip (splines/hub).
Safety & prep
Park on level ground, chock the front wheels, set the brake, and switch OFF. When lifting the rear, use jack stands under the frame and keep clear of rotating parts. Wear eye protection when inspecting underbody hardware.
Common problems and solutions
| Symptom | Most likely cause | Quick check | Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clunking over bumps, rear “steers” | Loose U-bolts or broken spring centering bolt | Look for shifted axle on leaf spring; shiny, elongated U-bolt marks | Realign axle on spring pin; replace centering bolt if broken; install new U-bolts and torque to spec |
| Motor runs, wheels don’t move | Stripped hub/drum splines or axle splines | With rear lifted, hold tire while applying light throttle; hub turns without wheel or “pops” under load | Replace the worn hub/brake drum (and axle if splines are damaged); use new nut/washer and torque properly |
| Whine/grind that changes in turns | Worn differential gears or low/dirty oil | Check for metal in drained gear oil; listen for pitch change on left/right arcs | Refill with correct gear lube; if noise persists, rebuild differential (bearings/gears) |
| No motor sound at all (electric) | Controller/solenoid fault or pedal switch | Key ON: listen for solenoid click; verify pack voltage and pedal switch continuity | Diagnose control circuit before rear axle work; repair solenoid/controller as needed |
Troubleshooting steps
- Road feel & noise map: Note when the symptom appears—over bumps (think U-bolts), during takeoff (think splines), or in sweeping turns (think differential).
- U-bolt/centering bolt inspection: From behind the axle, check that the leaf spring’s centering bolt head seats in the axle pad. If the axle is offset from the pin, realign. Replace any stretched or rust-thinned U-bolts.
- Rear-wheel “slip” test: Safely lift the rear and support the frame. Mark a line across the axle end nut and brake drum. Apply gentle throttle (electric) or hand rotate (gas, in neutral) while holding the tire. If the drum mark moves relative to the wheel, the hub/drum splines are stripped.
- Axle spline check (drum off): Remove the wheel and brake drum. Inspect axle splines for rounding. Light wear = replace drum only; heavy wear = replace axle and drum as a set.
- Differential health: Drain the gear oil into a clean pan. A little paste on the magnet is normal; shiny chips or flakes mean internal wear. Refill with fresh lube of the specified weight and retest; persistent whine suggests bearing/gear service.
- Mounting & alignment: Confirm both leaf springs sit square, shackles aren’t binding, and the axle tube isn’t bent. Uneven tire gap to the fender can hint at a shifted axle.
- Electric models—control sanity check: If the motor never energizes, verify pack voltage, pedal switch operation, and solenoid click before blaming the axle. If the motor does spin yet the cart doesn’t move, return to Step 3 (splines).
- Reassembly & torque: Use new hub nuts/cotter pins where specified. Torque U-bolts and hub nuts to spec in stages and recheck after the first short drive.
Repair notes & good practices
- Never reuse a stripped hub/drum: It will slip again and can damage a new axle end.
- Replace in pairs when practical: If one hub stripped from wear, the opposite side may be close behind.
- Secure brake hardware: After hub/drum service, verify shoe orientation, return springs, and parking-brake operation.
- Post-service checks: After 1–2 hours of use, re-torque U-bolts and hub nuts; settling can loosen hardware.
Why these steps work
Clunks and rear-steer usually start with the axle shifting on the leaf springs; tightening hardware restores geometry. A no-drive with a spinning motor nearly always traces to stripped hub/drum or axle splines, since power doesn’t transfer to the wheel. Differential sounds that change in turns point to side gears and bearings; fresh lube can quiet minor wear, but persistent noise needs a rebuild.
Quick FAQ
What should I check first? U-bolts and the spring centering bolt. Quick, visual, and often the root of noise/alignment issues.
Motor runs but no movement—what’s most likely? Worn hub/drum splines. Inspect and replace the stripped parts; don’t forget proper torque on reassembly.
Electric TXT: could it be “electronics” instead? If the motor never energizes, yes—controller or solenoid. If it energizes and the cart still doesn’t move, the failure is mechanical at the axle/hub.
Bottom line
Start with external hardware and spline integrity, then evaluate the differential and, on electric models, the control side. A systematic sequence saves time, prevents parts-chasing, and gets your EZ-GO TXT back to dependable service quickly.